Luoquan Pagoda

Behind Luoquan Temple, about 80 meters north of the newly built Tianjing Pavilion on the mountain ridge, stands an ancient tower without a spire, popularly known as the Topless Pagoda. Paired with the temple, the tower takes its name from the temple and is traditionally called the "Luoquan Pagoda". Like the main tower of the Three Pagodas Temple, known as the "Qianxun Pagoda" (its full name being "Fajie Tongling Mingdaocheng Pagoda"), it is extremely difficult to verify its original name. Guo Moruo, a scholar who was a historian, writer, poet, playwright, calligrapher, and archaeologist, visited Erhai Lake in September 1961 and also referred to the ancient tower as the "Luoquan Pagoda". His poem, "Erhai is truly a sea, the Luoquan Pagoda still exists," is now widely known. Sadly, less than five years after Guo Moruo's visit, the ancient tower was destroyed in July 1966 during the Cultural Revolution. Only a pile of rubble and some of the original Taihe stones used for the tower base—a type of riverbed stone from the eighteen streams of Cangshan Mountain—remain at the site.

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Dali Luoquan

Luoquan Peninsula

Luoquan Pagoda

Tianjing Pavilion

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Spot Description

  Behind Luoquan Temple, on a mountain ridge about 80 meters north of the newly built Tianjing Pavilion, stands an ancient tower without a spire, popularly known as the "Topless Tower." Paired with the temple, the tower takes its name from the temple and is traditionally called the "Luoquan Tower." Like the main tower of the Three Pagodas Temple, known as the "Qianxun Pagoda" with its full name of "Fajie Tongling Mingdaocheng Pagoda," tracing the original name of this tower has become extremely difficult. Guo Moruo, a scholar who combined the expertise of historian, writer, poet, playwright, calligrapher, and archaeologist, visited Erhai Lake in September 1961 and also referred to the ancient tower as the "Luoquan Tower." Guo's poem, "Erhai is truly like a sea, the Luoquan Tower still exists," is now widely known. Sadly, less than five years after Guo's visit, the ancient tower was destroyed in July 1966 during the Cultural Revolution. The site now only contains a pile of rubble and some Tahe Yuan stones used for the tower's base – a type of riverbed stone from the eighteen streams of Cangshan Mountain.

  The 1998 edition of the "Dali City Chronicle" entry on "Luoquan Tower" states: "The tower was approximately 25 meters high and 3 meters square, a multi-eaved square brick tower. It was destroyed in July 1966. The bricks have imprinted Sanskrit mantras and bricks with an inscription of 'Xin Wei Sui Zao' without a year. This tower was built during the Dali Kingdom period." Li Chaozhen and Zhang Xiluo's 1985 edition of "Ancient Towers of Dali," included in the "Nanzhao Ancient Towers" section, suggests that "the architectural style of the Luoquan Tower is similar to the Three Pagodas and Fotu Pagoda, and it is a building from the same era," describing it as "a thirteen-story, hollow, square, multi-eaved brick tower, with a remaining height of over thirty meters."

  Why the tower was topless remains a mystery, with no relevant historical materials found to provide an answer. There is only a folk legend that seems somewhat instructive but clearly cannot truly explain the reason for its topless state.

  Legend has it that in ancient times, a master and his apprentice competed to build a tower, seeing who could build faster and better. The master built the Three Pagodas in Haidong, and the apprentice built the Three Pagodas in Haixi, agreeing that whoever finished first would hold the Guanyin Market (later known as March Street) there. Unexpectedly, the master, being old and experienced, built meticulously, brick by brick. The apprentice, however, took shortcuts, using bamboo to build a framework and paper to cover it. For several days, there was no progress in Haixi. One day at dawn, the master looked towards Haixi from the East Mountain and saw that the apprentice's Three Pagodas had already been erected at the foot of Cangshan Mountain, while he had only just finished one of his towers. The master was very surprised and looked again. By then, it was broad daylight, and he saw clearly that it was made of paper. In a fit of rage, he struck the top of the tower with his palm, sending it flying to a village six li south. The more the master thought about it, the angrier he became. How could he have taken on such a dishonest, opportunistic, and deceitful apprentice? So he jumped into the sea and committed suicide. Legend says that later, the apprentice repented and rebuilt the Three Pagodas meticulously, and March Street was then set near the Three Pagodas in Haixi. But the apprentice never saw his master again. There is a village called Ta Cun (meaning "Tower Village" in Chinese) on the opposite shore of Jin Suo Island in Haidong; in Bai language, it's called "Ta Deng (taded)", literally translating to "Tower Head." It is said that the village got its name because the top of the Luoquan Tower fell there. Older people in the area say that there was indeed a small tower resembling a tower top behind Ta Cun in earlier years. The small hill where this small tower stood is also called "Ta Po" (Tower Slope) by the people of Ta Cun and Bo Xu villages.

  Legends are just legends, and this is certainly not the real reason for the topless tower. Perhaps it was caused by an earthquake, perhaps the construction was unfinished, or perhaps this was simply a design feature. The true reason remains unknown, but hopefully, someone will uncover the mystery!

  Those who have visited the Luoquan ancient tower recall that it was covered in moss and had no top. The lower level contained a stone statue of Buddha, which was then said to be the "Tower God." Hard sandalwood was inserted between the bricks of each layer. Because people often took the sandalwood to treat stomach aches and diarrhea, a corner of the bottom layer was damaged. Each of the four sides of each layer had a window.

  According to Li Hao's "Three Yi Sui Bi" (Three Yi Essays) from the Ming Dynasty, it is said that "Luoquan lived to be ninety-six, dying peacefully, and a stupa was built for his relics on Yu'an Mountain... During the Dali Kingdom, the Luoquan Tower was destroyed by an earthquake." The "Record of the Rebuilding of Luoquan Temple and the Restoration of its Permanent Residence" from the twenty-eighth year of the reign of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty states: "There is Luoquan Temple on the east coast of Ye Yu, founded by the Tang Dynasty monk Daoan... The monk rebuilt the tower on the mountaintop." The tower and temple were most likely built during the reign of Yimou Xun of the Nanzhao Kingdom in the Tang Dynasty. After the Battle of Tianbao, Ge Luofeng erected a stele in 776 to show that his rebellion against the Tang was unavoidable. In 779, Ge Luofeng died, and his grandson Yimou Xun succeeded him. The Tubo Empire re-appointed him as the "King of Ritedong," reducing the "brotherly nation" to a "subject nation." In 784, Yimou Xun moved the capital from Taihe to Dali (present-day Xizhou), and three years later, in 787, he moved it again to Yangjuma City (near present-day Dali Ancient City). The 'Xin Wei Sui Zao' inscription without a year on the brick may refer to the seventh year of the reign of Emperor Dezong of Tang, 791. This year was the fourth year since Nanzhao moved its capital from Dali to Yangjuma. Three years later, in 794, Nanzhao officially made peace with the Tang Dynasty and held the "Cangshan Alliance." The reason for the lack of a year is that Nanzhao had not yet officially submitted to the Tang Dynasty and it was inconvenient to write the Tang year name. Not writing the Tubo year name indicates that Nanzhao no longer wanted to be a subject of Tubo. The absence of a year is actually the key to uncovering the time the tower was built. If the ancient tower was indeed destroyed by an earthquake during the Dali Kingdom period, there would certainly be some intact bricks preserved. During restoration, these could have been reused, or replicas with the original 'Xin Wei Sui Zao' inscription could have been made. Perhaps the Luoquan stupa was not this tower, and the tower was not actually destroyed. The 1925 earthquake destroyed nine out of ten houses in the coastal area, yet this ancient tower remained intact. In 2005, during the construction of a water tower about ten meters north of the ancient tower site, another tower base was discovered during the clearing of the foundation, and many Tahe Yuan stones were unearthed. Whether the "double towers" mentioned in Li Jing's Yuan Dynasty poem "Tianjing Pavilion," "Double towers of hibiscus, jade majestic," were located here, and whether one of the double towers was later destroyed, leaving only the present "Luoquan Tower," is also possible. In short, there is little doubt that the tower was built during the Nanzhao Kingdom period of the Tang Dynasty.

  The first entry in the Republic of China's "Haidong Chronicle: Famous Sights and Ancient Relics" lists "Three Pagoda Peak," with a note stating: "Located in Haidong, the main mountain of Luoquan Temple, the Three Pagodas still exist." "Three Pagoda Peak" refers to "the peak of Luoquan Mountain," which is undoubtedly true. However, only this ancient tower remains of the "Three Pagodas," and the "Xiangyang Pagoda" on the top of the elephant trunk peak of Yu'an Mountain, about seven or eight li away from this ancient tower, only makes a "double pagoda." Whether "Three Pagodas still exist" refers to the "Luoquan ancient tower" instead of the "Three Pagodas" of "Three Pagoda Peak" or something else is unknown.

  All these mysteries are extremely attractive. If you are lucky enough to visit the Luoquan Peninsula, picking up a brick with Sanskrit writing or a brick with the inscription 'Xin Wei Sui Zao' without a year, or something else, is easy. If you are interested, go and see the ancient tower site; you will surely gain something.

  The restoration of the Luoquan Pagoda is now on the agenda, with blueprints already completed. The pagoda will retain its original topless design, remaining a hollow brick pagoda with eaves, but the tower body will be taller than the original, with a 6-meter-high circular base. The circular base has a diameter of 23.6 meters, with a 3.6-meter-wide circular corridor surrounding it. Sixteen cylindrical pillars stand outside the corridor, surrounding a large, bright main hall. The pagoda body on the circular base is 36 meters high and has 16 levels. The base of the pedestal is 2 meters high, and the height from the pedestal to the first eave is 10 meters. The entire structure, including the tower body and base, is 42 meters high. The bright main hall in the center of the base has a total area of 216 square meters and can host large Buddhist events, regularly holding performances such as "Nan Zhao Feng Sheng Le". If the space is insufficient, all doors and windows can be opened to connect with the corridor. The hall's niches enshrine traditional Bai Mi Buddhist statues such as the Great Sun Tathagata and the Great Black God, with sculptures of the Eight Heavenly Dragons and other deities on the side walls. The tower body on the base features four Luoquan statues with different expressions ("joy, anger, sorrow, and joy"), with the image of Luoquan illuminating all directions. The Luoquan Pagoda will also feature carefully designed night lighting to highlight the vast magical power of Luoquan and the charm of the pagoda, recreating the scene described in the "Taiping Guangji" of "the pagoda emitting light." After the successful reconstruction of the Luoquan Pagoda, it will become the most distinctive pagoda in Dali Prefecture, combining a hall, pavilion, and pagoda, becoming the only three-dimensional multifunctional Buddhist site, the largest dojo of Bai Mi (A Zhaliji), and the most eye-catching and prominent landmark in the East China Sea region, comparable to the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple in the West China Sea, adding to the beauty of the Cang'er scenery. It is said that the design also embodies the traditional Chinese philosophy of "outer circle and inner square" and the connotation of "heavenly mirror reflection," showcasing a brand-new look of the Luoquan Pagoda to visitors.

Recommended Attractions

Yu Hong Bridge


The newly built Tianjing Pavilion is located on the ridge of Luoquan Peninsula, while Guanyin Pavilion remains on the coast at the southern end of the peninsula, with the newly built coastal highway running between them. For the safety of tourists and the integration of the scenic area, a sky bridge was built in 2000 across the north-south central axis of Tianjing Pavilion, Guanyin Pavilion, and Shimulozi in the scenic area, crossing the East Coastal Highway at the foot of Yu'an Mountain. The bridge is 12 meters high, with a clearance (distance between the bridge bottom and the ground) of 5.5 meters, and a span of 12.5 meters. It is covered with glazed tile roofs and is made of reinforced concrete, yet possesses a national architectural style. It is particularly magnificent against the backdrop of blue sky, green mountains, and blue water. Especially in the sunlight, it glitters with golden light, appearing majestic and mysterious. From afar, it looks like a rainbow lying across the ridge, hence the name Yu Hong Bridge.

Prince's Pavilion


The Prince's Pavilion has two floors, both of which house sculpted images of the Sakyamuni Prince. The pavilion is situated to the south of Erhai Lake and faces north towards the Guanyin Pavilion. The upper floor has an open window at the front to facilitate those praying for a son to "hit the Prince". There is a couplet by the window that reads: "Come, come, come, quickly hit my golden sparrow; Go, go, go, quickly embrace your golden boy." The lower floor is mainly for prayer and incense offerings. There is a couplet by the door that reads: "The ancient Buddha understands the past causes, ten lifetimes of emptiness and form; The small river contains the moon's shadow, a hundred flowers bloom with brilliant articles."

Stone mule


About 165 meters from the shore in front of the present Taizi Pavilion (formerly the site of Tianjing Pavilion) lies a submerged reef, only a small part of which is exposed above the sea surface. This is the legendary Stone Mule. In the Haidong Bai language, it is customarily called "Zhouzhuang" (zoupzuaf), meaning "rock pile". Local gazetteers mostly write it as "Dinghai Zhuang". The Republican-era "Haidong Zhi" includes an entry for "Dinghai Zhuang", stating that "in front of Tianjing Pavilion, Luo Quan stationed the Stone Mule God below it". Legend has it that the hunter Qiaolang, the lover of the Nanzhao princess in the famous mythological story "Waiting for Husband Cloud", was struck down into the sea by Luo Quan's magic here and transformed into a stone mule, pressed down under this rock pile. This reef is called a rock pile because of its shape resembling a stone pillar. The water around the reef is over 20 meters deep. When a strong wind blows, the crevices in the rock emit a sound like the neighing of mules and horses. No wonder people associate it with the Yujufuyu floating clouds—weather clouds—that indicate strong winds, and have created a touching love story. Therefore, Dinghai Zhuang is commonly called Stone Mule in folk tradition, and some also call it the Wife-Waiting Stone.

Cliff inscription


Many stone carvings originally existed on the coastal cliffs of Luquan Peninsula, but unfortunately, most were destroyed by quarrymen. The only remaining stone carving is a Ming Dynasty inscription on the cliff face near the ancient Luquan ferry. This is less than 100 meters from Guanyin Pavilion at the western end and less than 100 meters from Luquan Temple at the northeast corner. However, there is no access path; to view it, one must look upwards from the beach below the cliff during the dry season. When the tide is high, one can only view it by boat.

Luoquan Pagoda


Behind Luoquan Temple, about 80 meters north of the newly built Tianjing Pavilion on the mountain ridge, stands an ancient tower without a spire, popularly known as the Topless Pagoda. Paired with the temple, the tower takes its name from the temple and is traditionally called the "Luoquan Pagoda". Like the main tower of the Three Pagodas Temple, known as the "Qianxun Pagoda" (its full name being "Fajie Tongling Mingdaocheng Pagoda"), it is extremely difficult to verify its original name. Guo Moruo, a scholar who was a historian, writer, poet, playwright, calligrapher, and archaeologist, visited Erhai Lake in September 1961 and also referred to the ancient tower as the "Luoquan Pagoda". His poem, "Erhai is truly a sea, the Luoquan Pagoda still exists," is now widely known. Sadly, less than five years after Guo Moruo's visit, the ancient tower was destroyed in July 1966 during the Cultural Revolution. Only a pile of rubble and some of the original Taihe stones used for the tower base—a type of riverbed stone from the eighteen streams of Cangshan Mountain—remain at the site.

Luoquan Temple


The Bai ancient history book "Bai Gu Tong Ji" (also known as "Bai Gu Tong" or "Bo Gu Tong"), completed during the Yuan Dynasty, records that "the evil dragon (original note: also known as Rakshasa) was eliminated by a great bodhisattva, but its kind still lurked in the sea caves of the eastern mountains, causing evil winds and white waves that often capsized boats. A divine monk founded Luoquan Temple on the eastern cliff to subdue it, chanting scriptures within." Ming Dynasty records, such as Xie Zhaoji's "Dian Lue", Li Yuanyang's Wanli "Yunnan Tongzhi", and Qing Dynasty records like Shi Fan's "Dian Xi" and Zhou Yue's Yongzheng "Bin Chuan Zhou Zhi", all contain accounts of Yang Dushi founding Luoquan Temple during the Tang Dynasty. The "Chongxiu Luoquan Si Qingfu Changzhu Bei Ji" (Stele Inscription on the Rebuilding of Luoquan Temple and the Restoration of its Permanent Residents), dated to the 28th year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty (1689), states that "on the shore of the East China Sea, there is the ancient Luoquan Temple, founded by the divine monk Daoan during the Tang Dynasty... Tracing back to the Tang Dynasty, it has undergone more than dozens of renovations and modifications." Yuan and Ming dynasty fragments unearthed near the site of Luoquan Temple in 2005 also bear inscriptions such as "the ancient monk Dushi founded the Luoquan Buddhist temple", and "there was a troublesome demonic crocodile that created wind and waves, causing many people to fall ill, and the divine monk Daoan arrived at this mountain... later, Yang Dushi established a Daoist field and made a vow to expand and repair the temple buildings." The above materials indicate that Luoquan Temple was initially built during the Tang Dynasty in the Nanzhao Kingdom. If we take the Jianzhong era of the Tang Dynasty (the era name of Emperor Dezong of Tang, 780-783 AD) as the founding date, it has a history of over 1300 years.

Luoquan Ancient Ferry


Li Yuanyang's poem "Twenty-Four Rhymes on a Trip to Erhai Lake" from the Ming Dynasty contains the lines "A single sail flies across the ancient ferry, a single leaf arrives at Luocuan." Xu Danshan's poem "Luocuan Temple" from the Qing Dynasty also has the lines "Frequently beating the oars with the wind, a single leaf arrives at Luocuan." Ancient poems and writings have long confirmed the existence of the ancient Luocuan ferry.

Dragon and Phoenix Pavilion


Entering the land-based scenic area gate, as you turn sideways to ascend the Yuhong Bridge, you will find a viewing pavilion on either side of the bridge pier at the south end of the Yuhong Bridge, one east and one west, like two guards guarding the bridgehead. No matter which pavilion you ascend, you can see the vast expanse of Erhai Lake and the Stone Mule and Yujufeng Peak. If it is winter or spring, you may also be lucky enough to see the Wangfu Cloud. For this reason, some people have named the pavilion "Longfeng Pavilion" after the protagonists A Long and A Feng in the newly adapted Bai opera "Wangfu Cloud". The pavilion has two floors. The lower floor is for general use, while the upper floor is open on all four sides and has benches with backrests for visitors to sit and enjoy the view. Many visitors enjoy climbing to the pavilion to take photos and leave memories.

Guanyin Pavilion


Li Hao, a scholar from the Ming Dynasty, recorded in his work "Three Yi Essays": "In Hexi, there is a water monster, golden-yellow in color and ox-like in shape. It often transforms into a man to seduce women, causing much suffering. One day, a beautiful young woman arrived, claiming she could eliminate the monster. She went to Erhai Lake and lured the monster out. When the monster saw the woman, it wanted to seduce her. The woman offered it delicious food, saying, 'It's better to eat first and then play.' The monster believed her and ate the food, finding it extremely delicious. The woman then offered a fried dish, shaped like an eel, with a strange aroma. As soon as it was eaten, it moved, its tail like a hook, piercing the monster's nose like a hook, causing it to feel sick and vomit. The vomit landed on the ground and turned into a pile of gold chains, binding its nose. The woman cast a spell, revealing the monster's true form as a golden ox, and chained the golden ox to a rock pillar in the heart of the sea. From then on, the monster ceased its evil deeds. It is said that the woman was actually the incarnation of Guanyin Bodhisattva. During the early years of the Zhao Dynasty, the Meng family built a Guanyin Temple southeast of Luoquan Temple. Inside, Guanyin was sculpted as a young woman, carrying a fish basket, with a golden ox lying beside her, and surging waves surrounding them. This is known as the "Subduing Demon Fish Basket Bodhisattva."

Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon Pavilion


Four viewing pavilions are built at each corner of the viewing platform in front of Tianjing Pavilion. In the center of each pavilion is a stone table, surrounded by benches with backrest. The roofs of the pavilions are uniformly covered with golden glazed tiles, which, together with the vermilion pillars, exquisitely decorated eaves, and neat Dali Taihe stone steps, appear both luxurious and elegant. The painted decorations of the pavilions mainly feature wind, flowers, snow, and moon. The scenery viewed from the pavilions often includes these elements, hence the name "Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon Pavilions".

The First Pavilion of Erhai Lake - Tianjing Pavilion


Among the four famous pavilions of Erhai Lake, Tianjing Pavilion is the most famous. Perhaps it is customary to arrange them in the order of southeast, northwest, people always list Tianjing Pavilion as the first of the four famous pavilions. However, even without relying on the orientation, Tianjing Pavilion deserves to be the number one pavilion of Erhai Lake based on its scenery and realm. Now, Tianjing Pavilion is the only restored and rebuilt famous pavilion of Erhai Lake, so it is naturally the number one pavilion of Erhai Lake. In fact, the scale and craftsmanship of the currently restored and rebuilt Tianjing Pavilion are so magnificent and exquisite that it is not only the number one pavilion of Erhai Lake, but also the number one pavilion of Dali and Yunnan.

Baxian Building


The Bai people are exceptionally adept at absorbing foreign cultures. Their religious beliefs often reflect the characteristics of mutual absorption and tolerance among multiple religions, with a widespread fusion of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. This is also reflected in the Guanyin Pavilion.

Mountains and rivers are full of spirits, and tourism knows no bounds — Dali Luoquan, waiting for you to read the story

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